Check out how awesome I’ve become (see the title). I’m so Hawaiian.
This morning, Adam and I went surfing at Pua’ena Point, which is on the North Shore of Oahu. So, technically, I’ve surfed the North Shore. Just like Jack Johnson and Blue Crush. Sort of.
Anyway, it was really fun. I stood up for all but my first wave, saw a humpback and paddled beside a sea turtle. I saw the humpback from afar, which is good, because honestly, if a humpback breached or even just swam in anything resembling close proximity to the vicinity of me bobbing about in the ocean (attached to nothing but a smallish flotation device), I’d first
- be overcome by the majestic beauty of nature,
- then pee in fear, attracting sharks and dying of humiliation and being eaten at the same time. There’s really no other way this could turn out. Obviously.
Adam came too, and though he got tired before I did (yay, yoga-shoulders!), he had a really great time, too. Which, translated, means that he wants to surf more. I WIN! I’ve surfed a few times, but never really got into it, because it’s kind of tricky to do alone, if you don’t have someone to share it with (both the sport and the epic drive up to Tofino). Though, I must say, I kind of want to stick to tropical surfing. Because it is awesome. Awesome and warm. It’s nice to not squeeze yourself into a wetsuit that you just KNOW oodles of strangers have peed in.
So clearly, my dear friends, I need to move to Hawaii. Didn’t I say this would happen? I visit Hawaii; I want to move here. For surfing and for tropical fruits. Seriously. They have coconut EVERYTHING here. You know who likes coconut EVERYTHING? This wahine!
So, that’s pretty much my update. It was rainy today. But I didn’t mind, though I hope it’s sunnier tomorrow. I’d like more of a (safely acquired through the thorough application of SPF 30) tan before I head back to the true north strong and free (and frozen).